We were up at 4.00am, off to Ercan to catch our plane to Istanbul. The Pegasus flight was an hour late leaving. It was a lovely view flying into Istanbul. We were early for our hotel but they said our room was ready and so let us go on up. It was in an ideal location, right in the centre of Sultanahmet. The following is what we did, a circular route (getting lost a couple of times where we strayed from the route!) Mal spent a lot of time planning our time here, so I guess I will put all the details below, in case anyone wants to repeat what we do. Both lunch and dinner were really as good as they say and CHEAP. To think we are in the centre of the tourist area in Istanbul and the prices are cheaper than North Cyprus!! We were so tired by the end of the day, having got up so early.
12:00 check in Otel Osmanhan (G)
13:00 lunch at Fish market via Hayat Café (B), at corner of Akbıyık Cad. and Mehmet Ağa Cad., Sultanahmet, Istanbul. This unassuming hole-in-the-wall café might not look like much. In fact, the entire café is outside under a covered roof. Though due to popularity, most of the seats are spilling over to the side-walk and street, and with good reason. While the beer is cold and cheap, it isn’t much to speak of. But the food is exceptional (a gem among the other restaurants in the area). A nice mix of mezes, salads and kebabs. A good selection for vegetarians. Cheap. Open late. Friendly staff. Accepts Euros and Turkish currency. about 10TL.
14:00 Hippodrome, (C) adjacent to the Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. This was the center of Roman and Byzantine Constantinople, and is a great place to begin one’s tour and to watch people. The building no longer stands, but the obelisks and sculptures that have been collected here since Theodosius’ time in the fourth century remain. The four bronze horses in the facade of St. Marco in Venice used to be on top of the Emperor’s box in the Hippodrome and they were looted by the crusaders in 1204. While on the way to the hippodrome, checked out German Fountain (Alman Çeşmesi), a 1901 constructed in neo-Byzantine style fountain at the square leading to Hippodrome. It was a gift sent by German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Sultan.
15:00 Small Sophia (D) built around 525AD
16:00 Byzantine Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque) (E) sultanahmetcami.com/hakkinda_eg.php, At Meydam Sokak 17, Sultanahmet (by tram: Sultanahmet) May-Oct 9AM-9PM, Nov-Apr:9AM-7PM. With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or ‘Blue’ Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side which is back side of mosque. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear (bags are provided that you can place your shoes in). Entrance is free, but donations are welcome upon exit.
17:00 Gülhane Park (F) (near Sultanahmet, and next door to Museum of Archaeology). This park was royal hunting grounds in the past. Today it’s a public park with lots of seasonal flowers, including huge patches of tulips in early April, and huge plane trees (platanus)—which means lots of shade as well and which are home to paraqueets. The high walls on one side of the park seperates it from Topkapı Palace. At one end of the park are a group of nice outdoor cafés—all of which basically serve the same drinks and snacks—with a view of Bosphorus, a view that is as charming as the view from the Palace situated right above. Those cafés sell tea by teapot (which equals to well over 5 glasses of tea), and a teapot of tea costs 12 TL for two persons. On your way to the cafés, don’t forget to check out the Column of the Goths (Gotlar Sütunu), a Corinthian-style marble pillar dating back to Roman times, located just behind the entrances of cafés. It was erected in honour of victory over Goths of either Claudius II Gothicus (r. 268-270) or Constantine the Great (r. 306-337), and it likely is the oldest artefact dating back to Roman era that is still intact in the city and possibly pre-dates the foundation of Constantinople, with some badly deformed Latin inscriptions on its pedestal. Also near the café is the ruins of a monastery dating back to Byzantine times. The park has two gates, one near Sultanahmet (on the street between Sultanahmet Sq and Sirkeci, the street on which tram runs), and the other on the avenue lying on the coastline. To get to Sirkeci/Eminönü from the latter, turn left after exiting the park. Free.
18:00 back to Hotel
20:00 dinner at Doy-Doy Restaurant, Sifa Hamamı Sokak No: 13, Sultanahmet, ☎ (0212) 517 15 88. An unassuming cafe spread out over three floors and a roof terrace with views over the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. A bit of a hidden gem, and well worth the visit. Often recommended by locals and reviewed by Fodors. Serves a menu of simple kebabs, chicken and lamb stews, and pide (Turkish pizza) baked in a wood-burning oven. A variety of mezes are also available. Lunch specials include bean or lentil soup. Soups, meatless pizzas, veggie kebabs and salad are great options for vegetarians. Friendly service. Cheap. Open late. meals under 10TL.
