Year: 2010

We drove into London to see Tris, Amanda and out grand daughter Violet. We had a lovely day and they took us out for lunch.

Scarlet and Jack weren’t at all well. Scarlet was very hot obviously catching the bug Jack has and he has a hacking cough and runny nose. Poor things.

We arrived back at Torin’s about 8.30 and stayed up until about 1.00 the next morning, having a drink (or two) and chatting.

We were up at 5.00am and packed to go to the airport. We vbooked our transfer with transfers4u. We waited for 3/4 hour and they didn’t arrive. Instead the hotel organised a lift for us which managed to get us to the airport on time. The hotel was so good and the staff. Highly recommended.

We flew into Stansted and then drove to Torin’s. The twins were staying the night but poor Jack really wasn’t very well and Scarlet was starting with the same bug.

We had a delicious Indian take away in the evening.

09:00 – After breakfast go to Topkapi Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) (opens at 9 am, closed on Tuesdays). www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/eng/indexalt.html, Bab-i Hümayün Caddesi (by tram: Gülhane/Sultanahmet), +90 212 512 0480. M,W-Su 9AM-5PM. The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for four centuries. Lavishly decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur. In the second court of the entrance to the Harem (admission extra, only by joining a guided tour) and the State Treasury, housing a weaponry display. The third court has the Imperial Treasury. Both Islamic and Christian relics, rugs, china. The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphorus are spectacular. You can also see Prophet Mohammed’s belongings. 20 YTL (no concessions, no cards accepted. only Turkish currency is accepted. Harem 15 YTL extra).

Hagia Irene (Aya İrini), (on the grounds of Topkapı Palace). Hagia Irene, which you will notice to your left after entering the outer yard of Topkapı Palace, is one of few Byzantine-era cathedrals which was never converted to a mosque (though not used for religious purposes either during the Ottoman period), although access to the interior is not allowed unless you have a ticket to the classical music concerts sometimes taking place inside the building.

You need to buy an extra ticket after entering the Palace to visit its most interesting section – the Harem. As there are long queues at the Harem entrance, especially during high season, we recommend that you go there first and continue with the rest of the Palace afterwards. You can spend the whole morning in the Palace.

13:00 – were going to have have lunch at Konyali Restaurant, located in the fourth courtyard of the Palace but the prices were ridiculous. Instead we found a cafe in the park which was more reasonable.

14:00 Grand Bazzar

19:00 Pasazade Restaurant Ottoman Cuisine

Another busy day. The palace was fantastic and the Grand Bazzar so huge! Our evening meal I have to say was the best meal I have eaten in a very long while.  See link If you are ever in Istanbul this is a must!

We then went back to the hotel ready for our early morning wake up call.

Breakfast was on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Bosphorous. We then went off for another days sightseeing. I think it may have been a little easier if the sat nav hadn’t kept playing up. In the afternoon, I know we were going round in circles and by this time my feet were really aching and we walked through the entire tailoring area of Istanbul (don’t think we were supposed to!)

In two days, the sat nav won’t work properly and Mal’s camera which he rarely uses has broken as well!  Bit of a joke as I use mine nearly every day and it is still going strong. But then Mal’s is nearly 5 years old. In that 5 years he has used it about FIVE times!!

09:30 – viewed Triumphal Arch which the emperor Theodosius I erected in the 4th century AD which was crowned with the statue of the emperor and a column in the center of the old Forum Tauri (today’s Beyazit Square). Some marble pieces of the Arch can still be seen today in its original location but the column and monumental fountain were destroyed by an earthquake in 557 and completely vanished around 16th century being used as construction material. Some of the pieces were used in the construction of a Turkish Bath next door, of which friezes can still be noticed today on its walls and in the base. It’s located at Sultanahmet neighborhood, in the center of old city. The Million Stone was always put in the center of a city and distances to all corners of the Byzantine Empire were once measured starting from this point. The stone was erected under the reign of Constantine the Great around 4th century AD in the northeastern corner of Augusteion Square, marking the starting point of an extensive road network.

11:00 – Opposite the mosque is a pier from where Turyol boats depart for a 90 minute Bosphorus cruise (a timetable can be obtained from the hotel’s front desk). These boat trips are the shortest and simplest way to explore the Bosphorus. But we decided to take a private tour. It lasted longer and we knew if we just walked along by the sea, plenty of people would offer us trips…they did!

14:00 Once back look out for the full-screen Galata Bridge Fish Sandwiches, Galata Bridge (Lower Level). Balik ekmek! That’s what you listen out for when you’re heading down to the lower level of the Bridge on the Eminonu side. Once a raucous tradition for the local fishermen to sell their ‘fish in bread’ straight of the side of the boat—occupational health and safety policy banned the popular trade, though you can still find the delicious morsels here! Wash it down with a fresh pickle juice.

Walk in the direction of the Golden Horn will take you to less popular Rüstem Pasha Mosque (B) to see some of the most beautiful Ottoman tiles of the classical era. Then on to the Spice Market or Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)(C) in Eminönü is also a covered bazaar, which is a lot smaller than Grand Bazaar, and as its name implies, houses herbalist and spice shops. Stroll in and around the market, after which you can visit the

Next – 17th century Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici) opposite Hagia Sophia and the. Yerebatan Cad., Sultanahmet www.yerebatan.com,  A giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to provide water to the city in cases of siege. A wooden walkway winds between the pillars, and lights and piped music add to the eerie atmosphere. Bring some type of fish food as you’ll see enormous fish swimming below your feet. The statues of Medussa are impressive. 3YTL for Turkish citizens, 10 YTL (no concessions. Turkish currency and credit cards accepted.).

After all this, it was back to the hotel and after two days I am really getting tired of being asked if I would like to buy a carpet, everywhere we go!

Lale Restaurant, or the legendary Pudding Shop www.puddingshop.com/homepagex.html as known by Hippies of 60’s, is still open but without its former glory and crowd. In Sultanahmet, very near the tram station. So, the Pudding Shop was the nights choice for our dinner. Good food, we both had steak, mushrooms and cheese and really tasty salad. The Turkish coffee there was probably the best I have tasted.

We were up at 4.00am, off to Ercan to catch our plane to Istanbul. The Pegasus flight was an hour late leaving. It was a lovely view flying into Istanbul. We were early for our hotel but they said our room was ready and so let us go on up. It was in an ideal location, right in the centre of Sultanahmet.  The following is what we did, a circular route (getting lost a couple of times where we strayed from the route!) Mal spent a lot of time planning our time here, so I guess I will put all the details below, in case anyone wants to repeat what we do.  Both lunch and dinner were really as good as they say and CHEAP. To think we are in the centre of the tourist area in Istanbul and the prices are cheaper than North Cyprus!! We were so tired by the end of the day, having got up so early.

12:00 check in Otel Osmanhan (G)
13:00 lunch at Fish market via Hayat Café (B), at corner of Akbıyık Cad. and Mehmet Ağa Cad., Sultanahmet, Istanbul. This unassuming hole-in-the-wall café might not look like much. In fact, the entire café is outside under a covered roof. Though due to popularity, most of the seats are spilling over to the side-walk and street, and with good reason. While the beer is cold and cheap, it isn’t much to speak of. But the food is exceptional (a gem among the other restaurants in the area). A nice mix of mezes, salads and kebabs. A good selection for vegetarians. Cheap. Open late. Friendly staff. Accepts Euros and Turkish currency. about 10TL.
14:00 Hippodrome, (C) adjacent to the Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. This was the center of Roman and Byzantine Constantinople, and is a great place to begin one’s tour and to watch people. The building no longer stands, but the obelisks and sculptures that have been collected here since Theodosius’ time in the fourth century remain. The four bronze horses in the facade of St. Marco in Venice used to be on top of the Emperor’s box in the Hippodrome and they were looted by the crusaders in 1204. While on the way to the hippodrome, checked out German Fountain (Alman Çeşmesi), a 1901 constructed in neo-Byzantine style fountain at the square leading to Hippodrome. It was a gift sent by German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Sultan.
15:00 Small Sophia (D) built around 525AD
16:00 Byzantine Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque) (E) sultanahmetcami.com/hakkinda_eg.php, At Meydam Sokak 17, Sultanahmet (by tram: Sultanahmet) May-Oct 9AM-9PM, Nov-Apr:9AM-7PM. With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or ‘Blue’ Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side which is back side of mosque. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear (bags are provided that you can place your shoes in). Entrance is free, but donations are welcome upon exit.
17:00 Gülhane Park (F) (near Sultanahmet, and next door to Museum of Archaeology). This park was royal hunting grounds in the past. Today it’s a public park with lots of seasonal flowers, including huge patches of tulips in early April, and huge plane trees (platanus)—which means lots of shade as well and which are home to paraqueets. The high walls on one side of the park seperates it from Topkapı Palace. At one end of the park are a group of nice outdoor cafés—all of which basically serve the same drinks and snacks—with a view of Bosphorus, a view that is as charming as the view from the Palace situated right above. Those cafés sell tea by teapot (which equals to well over 5 glasses of tea), and a teapot of tea costs 12 TL for two persons. On your way to the cafés, don’t forget to check out the Column of the Goths (Gotlar Sütunu), a Corinthian-style marble pillar dating back to Roman times, located just behind the entrances of cafés. It was erected in honour of victory over Goths of either Claudius II Gothicus (r. 268-270) or Constantine the Great (r. 306-337), and it likely is the oldest artefact dating back to Roman era that is still intact in the city and possibly pre-dates the foundation of Constantinople, with some badly deformed Latin inscriptions on its pedestal. Also near the café is the ruins of a monastery dating back to Byzantine times. The park has two gates, one near Sultanahmet (on the street between Sultanahmet Sq and Sirkeci, the street on which tram runs), and the other on the avenue lying on the coastline. To get to Sirkeci/Eminönü from the latter, turn left after exiting the park. Free.
18:00 back to Hotel
20:00 dinner at Doy-Doy Restaurant, Sifa Hamamı Sokak No: 13, Sultanahmet, ☎ (0212) 517 15 88. An unassuming cafe spread out over three floors and a roof terrace with views over the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. A bit of a hidden gem, and well worth the visit. Often recommended by locals and reviewed by Fodors. Serves a menu of simple kebabs, chicken and lamb stews, and pide (Turkish pizza) baked in a wood-burning oven. A variety of mezes are also available. Lunch specials include bean or lentil soup. Soups, meatless pizzas, veggie kebabs and salad are great options for vegetarians. Friendly service. Cheap. Open late. meals under 10TL.

Down to the beach early in the morning with Rosie. It was a bit cloudy so not quite such a beautiful sunrise as normal.  Mal had a paddle and said how warm the sea was compared to the temperature in our pool where the temperature is slowly dipping.

Our house sitters arrived and we sorted Rosie out and packed for our few days away in Istanbul. Sooo looking forward to it.

We were up early and bought Cyprus Today (a precis on NCFP). Apart from their coverage of the ongoing stories, little else.

Wow, we had rain. It may have only been for about 20 seconds but it was lovely to stand in it.

Make what you will of this, people seem to have such short memories, a good thing Mal hasn’t! see link

I have to say, a member of Cyprus 44 remembers too……”The Chittocks, The Petches, Gez,  Olive Tree Jack, Maureen and husband and the Chandlers.”   Gez was the reason NCFP began! Olive Tree Jack, who tried to rescue the olive trees (two of which are in our garden). The Petches who phoned us so that we could take the grandchildren to see the turtle hatchings. I could go on and on……all gone from the island.

Thought for the Day : “Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build a bridge even where there is no river” – Nikita Khrushchev